Marty -

I just installed Disto’s 512 K upgrade. All seemed to go well until power up.I
get the green screen but no Disk Basic message. I tried it without the disk
controller in stalled but got the same results. Any suggestions?

Greg

ROGER, I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM THAT DAVID PETERSON IS HAVING. I ALSO
HAVE THE DISTO MINI CONTROLLER.

I have a problem similar to the one in the July 89 issue of Rainbow on page
124. When I turn on my CoCo 3, all I get is a blank 32 column green screen. The
3 guys won’t come up. The computer just has a blank screen. The computer is a
1986 model (with old G
IME) Should I spend $50 on a tester to see where the problem is, just replace
the 68BO9E chip, or just buy a new CoCo 3? Also, I am not the greatest hardware
tinkerer in the world. (Depending on what’s is my best way, could you tell me
what I need/hot to d
ow to do it?) Thanks…
\

Hey, does anyone know the pinouts for the 9-pin connector on the back
of an Amiga 1080 monitor?

I need to hook one up to a custom 68K machine. Much thanks in advance!

kevin

Roger, finally got a HD system up with RGB DOS (from SD Ent.). Very nice.
System is Disto Host, Adaptec 4010a, Seagate 412, and Tandy 5 meg monster
case. Running in COCO 3 w/512k.
When I try to use the DRIVE STOP command I get alot of ‘grinding’. I have
tried setting the park to 0, 306, and 307 and reformatting with the Disto
format routine and nothing makes any difference. Any suggestions?
I noticed in RGB there was 16 bytes free @ $D920 and that it was free from
$DFA8. Now that you are ‘converted’ to OS9 are you planning to make any
revisions to the DOS? Do you expect to use these areas for anything?
Also, in your NEWCMD program you did not do anything to the dispatch code
to take care of the inherent problem of missing tokens. Was this because
you used all of the tokens in NEWCMD?
Thanks for taking the time to help. David Peterson

Thanks Marty

One more question if you don’t mind.

The light I looks like the same case almost as the one Jameco sells. Theirs
is a little on the costly side for the couple of times I would use it.
The lamp in mine is a #50054 (CAL 91778) short wave. Does this tell you
anything? Could you tell me the number of a proper lamp? I maybe able
to just replace the lamp. I also take it that I am to leave the filter in
place.

Thanks –jim

I have found that some Diecom software refuses to run on my 512k Coco3 I
know the problem is based in the computer but I have no idea what it is
does anyone have any ideas as to what it might be?
Robert Louden.
(KURSE)

Dose anboby know of a crossassembler for the color computer. To write
Z80 or Z8 microcomputer or any other micro code ?
I would like to write assembly programs on my cother types of cpu
besides the 6809E.
Norman Eric Stringer

Dear Kevin,

I am appreciative of your understanding of some of the confidential nature
of my work. I can tell you that travelling as much as I do, and working with
many large companies with 3 letter acronyms and 9 digit quarterly reports,
I see many interesting things come down the pike. Many I am only permitted
to “hint” at or get people excited over. I am sometimes just bursting to
get on-line and blab all…. but I have a reputation and morals and ethics
to uphold, and I find it ever so much easier to shave if I can look at myself
in the morning in the mirror….
Anyways, I know, Kevin, that you know some things that I also know and Marty
does not know. God, what terrible spies we would all make!
Meantime, if I want speed, and a hard disk doesn’t give me that certain
special feeling, well, there are other alternatives to certain slower machines
that still run OS9/K/etc…..and so much more.
Gday, Mate!

— Jeff Parker

Dearest Dr. Marty,
just as you must protect the confidentiality of your patients and/or clients,
so must I protect the confidentiality of mine. I did not write lightly
about the Hitachi, and I am privvy to certain exciting new developments
that you are not.
Naturally, focusing on a slightly different topic than “How can I get my CoCo
to beat a ’486?” I did not stop to consider that there would be some
considerable keyboard blasting about speed.
Let me relay this detante to all users who have been following the thread:
THE HITACH CHIP IS NOT FOR COCO, THAT WAS STATED FOR A DIFFERENT PURPOSE
WHICH YOU MUST PATIENTLY WAIT FOR. BE CONTENT WITH THE COCO AT ITS PRESENT
SPEED, THE HITACHI 6309 WILL NOT MAKE IT FASTER, AND CANNOT BE USED AS A
SIMPLE DROP IN SPEED UP CHIP.
On a lighter note, I am really pleased at all the responses I have been
getting to the article. Even my students in Technical Writing at
Northeastern University liked it!
Keep the cards and letters coming!!!

Jeff Parker

There are a few errors in the data presented in the memory map.
On the subject of the MMU task 1 registers:
$FFA8 has $38
$FFA9 has $30
$FFAA has $31
$FFAB has $32
$FFAC has $33
$FFAD has $3D
$FFAE has $35
$FFAF has $3F
Also, $FF9B stores hires textscreen character attributes.

THIS IS AN UPDATE ON A COCO III PROBLEM I DSECRIBED TO YOU A MONTH AGO.
IT WAS LOCKING UP IN ANY GRAPHIC SCREEN IN COCO III MODE. YOU (AND I) THOUGHT
IT MIGHT BE THE GIME CHIP
R/S REPAIR SAYS THEY JUST CLEANED RELAYS AND RESET VIDEO. IT WORKS FINE NOW,
BUT DOES THAT MAKE SENSE?
ANYWAY, IT ONLY COST $35. THOUGHT THIS INFO MIGHT HELP WITH OTHER MMBERS.
THANKS AGAIN.

HI ROGER..
THE DISTO INTERFACE I GOT FROM ARIZONA WORKS FINE.. IT’S THE ONE I GOT FROM
MICROCOM THAT DOESN’T WORK AT ALL!
THE NEW 4-IN-1 BOARD INTERFACE IS FAULTY.. I’VE TRIED IT ON 4 OTHER SUPER
CONTROLLER 2′S AND IT’S A NO GO SITUATION. IT’S GOT TO BE SENT BACK FOR A
REPLACEMENT..
THE OTHER ONE I HAVE CAME IN AN OLD MEB CARRIER FROM DISTO AND IT WORKS
PERFECTLY WITH YOUR RGB DOS. THE BAD PART IS IT WON’T RUN HYPER I/O WITHOUT A
MULTIPAK.. BUT THAT’S OK SINCE RGB DOS IS MORE RELIABLE ON MY SEAGATE 20 MEG
ANYWAY.. MUCH ROOM FOR EXPERI
MENTATION HERE ROGER!!

SKYLINE

Hi there,… I am thinking f getting an SC2 and the 4in1 for a SCSI disk
drive(I dont have an MPI).. one problem tho…I dunno where to look for
(I hate this editor)..SCSI drives for the adapter…what exactly would I need
and where would be the cheapest place to get the stuff I need to add a 20 meg
SCSI HD to the 4in1 card?
…oops..thats a SC2..not a CC2…(Super controller 2)
—Ezra

I recall you once explaining that the reason 256K x 4 bit chips could not be
used on the CoCo is because the CoCo does not support the refresh cycle needed
by these 1 megabit chips. (Wasn’t it 512-cycle vs. the normal 256-cycle)?

If this is what I think it is, there may be a way around it. If my memory is
not to rusty, there may be a way around this. When 256K upgrades first started
coming out for the Atari XL series, it was noted some of the earlier ANTIC
chips did not support the proper refresh. (In fact, I believe they mentioned
it only support 128-cycle, and 256-cycle was needed). As a result, some mods
included a circuit to provide the refresh extension.

I would expect this would work for the CoCo as well, if I have my info straight.

And with 256Kx4 chips going for as low as $15, and 256Kx1 chips going for
about $6 each, some savings could be realized even if the extra chips needed
(I believe the Atari circuit took 3) ate up the savings in power and board
space.

BTW, I don’t plan on doing anything about this if this is possible, as I
already have a 512K upgrade. But I thought some prospective board maker out
there might be interested in if my thoughts are correct…which would mean a
256Kx4 bit chip 512K upgrade would be economically feasible.

b-back, LEM

Skyline,
Before you send it back, do a few tests,

1 Is the power connected right (polarity).
2 Is the board connected properly.
3 What software are you using to test the board?

The jumpers and wires are because of board errors, and will vanish as soon
as the next batch of boards are produced. All 4in1 boards are tested before
leaving CRC. If you still haven’t got it to work, call CRC and they’l inform
you on what to do next. -Tony.

Can someone out there please give me a brief overview of what piggy-backing
ram accomplishes and how it works?? Curios as to how put one memory chip
on top of another one accomplishes anything but a mess.

Marty,
I just received my “Super Extended Basic Unravelled” book which mentions the
picture – it also mentions that they have their names in rom – encoded and
apon power up, their names are un-complemented (simple code!) and stored into
ram. for what purpose???? seems they are carrying the ego a bit too far….
I still may pop that rom out – we have the facilities at work for removing
120 pin custom chips – surface mounted to boards – this should’nt even slow it
down….
Jim

(1) As Eddie Kuns has quite correctly pointed out, the CM8
is an ANALOG ONLY monitor… whereas the IBM CGA protocol
is a TTL level four bit color protocol. The two are quite different…both
in the voltage levels for the video signal AND in the WAY the video
is encoded.

(2) A PROPER adaptor would involve a bunch of small scale logic
chips and/or a nine bit wide CGA decoder PROM chip, with their
output hooked to a resistor network (typically nine VERY carefully
calculated values of resistor) to make up the analog signal
levels to the CM8. This requires FAR more time an effort
than it is worth!!!

(3) It has been reported to me by one user here that you CAN hook
up the R, G, B, H sync and V sync and ground lines of
the CGA (ignoring the Intensity line) to the same name lines
on the CM8 and get a decent image on the screen. Naturally,
without the intensity line, you will only get SIX color plus
black and white, not the 14 colors plus B&W that the CGA
protocol normally supports.

BUT… as I pointed out to that member, doing so MIGHT
risk harming the CM8 inputs, for you are exposing the R,G, and B
inputs on the CM8 to 3 or 4 volts, instead of the .9 volt
max level they were designed to accept. It is POSSIBLE
that the inputs of the chip in the CM8 will withstand this
without problem. Or it is possibe that, after a month or three,
the chip will fail. I just don’t know, for those inputs
go to a CUSTOM chip in the CM8 that I am not familiar with.

Could you tell me your real name and the city and stae
your live it, so I can use you interesting question in some
future CoCo Consult???

—marty

I stand by my original note:

(1) 4 / .9 = 4.4444 which rounds to FOUR, not five

(2) Making the comparison of the FASTEST available 6309 to
the SLOWEST available 6809 is stupid, worthless, and grossly
misleading.

(3) Running chips faster than manufactuerer’s specs is
always a BAD thing to do… no matter what Hitachi whispers
over the phone.

(4) Your .9 figure comes from the CoCo… NOT the Motorola
specs for the 6809, which IS speced to 1 Mhz anyway.

Even if I were to accept your allegation of the
6309 being fully and truly 4 MHz capable, despite the
spec sheets being VERY clear that it is rated to at most
3 MHz, the valid comparison is to the 68B09, a 2 mHz
processor. Making the 6309 by any VALID comparison
TWICE as fast, at most, than a 6809… NOT five times.

So there!

—marty

I have been following with interest your running comments re the use of
Y-cables on the COCO. I guess I’m squarely on both sides of the issue.
My own experience and that of friends has been that they will work
reliably over the long haul. On the other hand, I would have to agree
that they are certainly not for everyone. The potential for problems is
there – problems which would have most users tearing their hair out.

My own experience is mixed. I’ve used a ccbus at the end of a fairly
long extension cable for several years (not exactly a Y-cable, but sort
of the same idea). At the start, I had it on the end of a whopping 15″
long cable, and it worked fine like this for a long time. When I got a C
compiler, it was the first time I got into some rather long, intensive
disk I/O – even simple programs can take several minutes to compile, with
the disks grinding away the whole time. I started to get system hangups
after a minute or a half or so of this. Suspecting the cable, I started
to shorten it incrementally. At 10″, no more problems.

Another cable problem – I can only plug certain slot-independent
cartridges into certain slots. For instance, I cannot put my RS232 pack
closer than two slots away from my disk controller, else I get bizzare
behavior. My wordpak, on the other hand, seemingly can go anywhere. By
trial and error I have found all this out, and the whole kludgy mess
works flawlessly so far as I know. I’m just a hobbyist/hacker, and I
took it as a fun challenge to make it work. But I don’t think it would
have been fun for a lot of people.

***** Dennis *****

The following message appeared on the CoCo mailing list the other day,
and I thought people might be interested in it.

(For more info on the CoCo mailing list operating on Internet/Bitnet/UUCP,
contact me here or at koonce@math.berkeley.edu, or …!ucbvax!math!koonce)

– Tim Koonce

Date: Fri, 9 Sep 88 02:01:22 ADT
Reply-To: COCO – Tandy Color Computer List
Sender: COCO – Tandy Color Computer List
From: James
Subject: sparklies
To: Tim Koonce

I have an extended warranty on my color computer (512k). The sparklies
were fierce sometimes, especially during disk i/o, RS232 i/o, and when I
was running RMA under OS9 Lev 2.

I showed the August 1988 Rainbow issue to our local RS repairman (page 162 CoCo
Consultations). He replaced the GIME (TCC 1014) with the newer `A’ version,
and then added a seating clip. My sparklies are completely cured – at no
additional charge.

What this means: rather than buy a new GIME, you could simply buy another
year’s warranty ($35 CDN). The inspection fee is waived providing your CoCo
has no “non-RS” parts and you purchase the extended warranty agreement. If you
don’t already have extended warranty, then this is still a cheaper way to get a
new GIME.

BTW, I got an extended warranty in the first place because I bought one
of the first CoCo3s released and new that any problems in the design should
appear in the first two years. Well, I am pleased that the sparklies have
been caught and “fixed”.

James

Has anyone else found a sure-fire, less expensive route of curing the
sparklies?

MARTY,
DETAILS, DETAILS. JUST BECAUSE
I HAVE ALL THE MULTI-PAKS I NEED
AND I DIDN’T EVEN BOTHER TO CHECK
IF THOSE WERE STILL LISTED.
WELL, I GUESS THAT MAKES SENSE AND I WAS JUST INTERESTED IN AN
UNFORTUNATE BUYERS SENSE. YOU SEE I BOUGHT ONE OF THE CONTROLLERS AT A TENT AND
THOUGHT I MIGHT GET SOME USE OUT OF IT BUT I HAVEN’T
SEEN ANY OF THE COMPATIBLE DRIVES AVAILABLE ANY MORE, NOT
EVEN IN A “SPIFF” SALE.
SEE YA LATTER (NOT FORMER, HA!)
GARY

In case any one is interested Radio Shack just disco an another CoCO item
This week they just disco the hard drive controller. I don’t know if they plan
to release a new version or not. I work at RS and the memo came in this week
about it.

Steve

Marty,

I was going to do Harwarehack’s sparklie fix here, and got a couple of
120 pf caps from someone’s junk box. Then I noticed in the tech manual
that the original cap is rated at 50 volts. Is there any way to tell
from those cryptic markings on capacitors what their voltage rating is?
The ones I have are marked ‘RMO 120 N1500 20%’ They’re the orange disk
type, about 1/4″ in diameter.

***** Dennis *****

To anyone who is interested – I have found at a local Radio Shack a small
stock of the Deluxe RS232 Pak. If you need one, I would be willing to
offer it to you for $30.00, Shipping included. Of course, this is subject
to availability of the Paks, as they are a discontinued item! Please
leave me a message in EMail if you wish to discuss further.

DougFisher

John,

I now recall that Art Flexser may still be vending a very cleverly
designed 24 to 28 pin converter. You might want to speak to him
about this item. I saw it a couple of years ago, and it looked
VERY well (and VERY cleverly) made.

I have for sale two less clever but similar adaptors,
made by Dennis Kitsz some years ago. I’d want $15 each
for them.

—marty

does anyone know where I can get some plans on how to build a power supply for
disk
disk drives? I don’t need anyone to build one for me just would like the
plans foir one……thanks
)
laters

When I made my first efforts at converting that CGA monitor
for RGB Analog operation, I bufferred the R,G, and B input
lines first with a single PNP emitter follower, and then
tried it with a single NPN emitter follower. Both times
I discovered that the lowest bightness levels of all
three colors was rendered as black (palette colors 1,2, and 4
for B,G, and R respectively). This of course meant that the
total number of possible colors was severely reduced down from
the normal 64.

Only when I switched to the PNP – NPN emitter follower
I described to you in my last message was I able to
get the lowest brightness level correctly rendered
for R,G, and B.

You may wish to make up a simple display program that shows
on the screen strips of all three brightness levels
of all three colors (I wrote one to do that using BASIC
in about 3 minutes). That display was very helpful
in adjusting my circuitry.

Note that with the normal black on green 32 col display,
an analog RGB display that fails to show low brightness
level colors will look perfectly fine. If you choose,
say, palette color 8 (medium blue) background and palette color
63 (white) foreground for 80 col text, things will still look
fine. Only if you start trying the dimmer or more subtle
shades will you notice the problems.

Finally, the problem you have with your set may be
related to improper biasing of the base of the transistor
into which you feed the R,G, and B luminance on the monitor
mutha board. If the PNP NPN dual emitter follower buffer
does NOT help, try fiddling with base bias where the
signal get inserted (tie the input up to +5 via a resistor
of some sort, then try tying it down to ground via a resistor
of some sort (some sort = 100 ohm – 10,000 ohm… experiment!)
and see if this affects the rendition of the colors.

—marty

I have a Tandon TM 100-2 (full height double sided 40 track 6 ms capable)
disk drive with case and power supply and cable, that I will sell
for $60 + $5 shipping.

—marty

I have two single sided 40 track half height disk drives
of the identical sort (TEC 501) to that used in Tandy FD501
drive systems. These are perfect for adding a second (drive 1)
drive to single drive FD501 systems.

$40 + $5 shipping, and you can have one. If you want
both, you can have them both for $60 + $5 shipping.

—marty

Marty,
I can obtain a 25″ television with a very poor tuner (it’s really about
shot). I would like to bypass the internal tuner and send the television a
NTSC video signal from a VCR. What I do NOT know is if there is anywhere in
the set’s circuitry that this signal could be sent. I’m only guessing that
this is what is left after demodulating the RF in the tuner portion. What do
you think? Is this “do-able”? I am sure it would be worth the time considering
the price of television sets these days.
BTW – I have *no* intention of attempting to use it for a monitor for my
CoCo. My CM-8 is just fine (plus I can read 80 columns with it).
Thanks in advance for any advice you may have!
-Mark

HA

WHERE ON DELPHI IS THE SIG FOR THE TANDY 100 LAPTOP? I CHECKED THE TANDY SIG
BUT DID NOT SEE IT. I PICKUP UP A 100 AND LIKE TO SEE WHAT INFO IS AVAIABLE
FOR IT.
STEVE

You might be interested in the advice I gave regarding buffering
an adeded analog input when converting a TTL monitor for RGB A
operation. I refer to your experience in that note.

—marty

Thanks Marty!

The 7406 in my controller was the problem. I pulled out my old 12v diskbasic
.0 controller and pull out a 7416 and piggybanked it on the bad 7406 chip and
presto I can not access drive 1
can now access drive 1 & 3 on my J&M controller. When I get a 7406 chip then
I’ll solder it in. Again thanks for your help. It goes to show belonging to
Delphi is well worth the money for all the help you can get.

I guess the $20.00 bucks I spended for 2 dos J&M controller was worth it at the
local hamfest/computer fest.

People ought to check these fests out. At the last one I picked a a new
working x-pad for $5.00 orginal box and plasti, a RS 232 pak for $5.00 and the
J&M controller for $20.00. It really pays to attend these events.

You saved me a lot of headaches, thanks again

Steve

DOES ANYONE HAVE A 1200 BD MODEM (USED) FOR SALE? NEED A RS232 PAK AS WELL
IF AVAILABLE.

I’m having problems with my J&M controller. It works fine with drive 0 & 2 but
if I try to ccess drive 1 &3 the drive just spins. I have 2 double sided
drives. If I take out the ROM and put it in my HDS controller the drives work
find. So the p
roblem is not thecable. Any suggestions anyone?
It’s the two rom switchable controller by means of a switch. I like the
controller and like to try to repair it if its now to expensive. I picked it
up second hand at a computer show.
Any help would be appreciated.

Steve

I have to thank the both of you for your help in greatly
improving my personal computing workspace. Marty, your
keyboard extender cable works perfectly. And Doug came through
with a 16K CoCo 2 for only $11! The keyboard fits perfectly
in the CoCo 2 cab. If you have a MPI and especially if you have
a heavily populated MPI you’ll really go for this solution.
Even if Doug can’t get anymore 16K CoCo 2s ofr only $11, Tandy
National Parts will be glad to send you a CoCo 2 cabinet assembly,
(top & bottom) for about $13 (postpaid).
And Marty’s keyboard entender cable is available from Microcom.
They don’t advertise very much in The Rainbow, but if you order
anything from them, you’ll see it in the packet they send you.

Tony, is your 4 in 1 controller’s hard drive interface compatible with the
Burke & Burke system?

Hey.
I’m interested in hooking up a hard drive to my CoCo 3. It’s a 60 meg
SCSI hard drive. Is that compatible with all the stuff I see advertised in
Rainbow? (CoCo XT interface, Hyper I/O, WD controller). None of the ads
in Rainbow mention that the hard drives are SCSI so I want to make sure
the interfaces will work if I buy them. Do I need a different SCSI controller
and if so where can I get one? Thanks in advance…

Mike

DON, HOW CAN I GET MY COCO TO DISPLAY FULL SCREEN WIDTH WHEN USING MIKEYTERM
THRU A DIRECT CONNET PAK.
I RUN CM515 RGB AND HAVE CONFIGURED MIKEYTERM FOR 80 COLUMNS. THE CHARACTERS
ARE THE RIGHT SIZE BUT WHEN ON LINE THEY WILL NOT FILL THE COMPLETE
SCREEN. THEY ONLY WILL GO 32 COLUMNS AND THEN RESETS.
ANY ADVISE??

THANKS

WHAT ARE THE POWER SUPPLY REQUIREMENTS FOR THE CGP-115 COLOR PRINTER? LEAVE
REPLIES FOR “FULTZFAM” THANK YOU.

Hello everyone…is anyone selling a MPI for under $60?…my local RS is still
selling them for $65!…

also, if you know about the vertical scroll & start address registers in the
GIME..please read message #44133 to martygoodman…that has another question
thanks..
–Ezra

I HAVE A COCO III AND HAVE BEEN GIVEN A COMMODORE 1802 MONITOR. IT HAS THREE
WAYS IT WILL WORK : COMPOSITE, SEPERATED LUMA & CHROMA AND MONOCHROME. IS
THERE ANY WAY TO HOOK THE III UP TO THE SEPERATED? MAYBE OUT OF THE RGB PORT?
THANKS!!

Marty tells me that you might be looking for a cabinet to go along with the
extender cable you recently purchased from him. If so, I just bought a
26-3134 CoCo2 complete, new, in the carton from a local shack for $8.00.
National Parts wants over $10. just for the cabinet! The store manager
says he has another he’ll part with at a similar deal. If you want it, let
me know ASAP and I’ll pick it up for you. Leave me your mailing address in
EMAIL and I’ll send it to you for what it cost plus postage. The carton on
mine was a little shabby, but everything was inside and obviously new. I
haven’t seen the other one, but I assume it to be in similar condition.

DougFisher

THIS MESSAGE IS TO ANYBODY WHO CAN HELP ME…
DOES ANYBODY KNOW HOW TO HOOK UP (INTERFACE) A TANDY 1000 SX/TX 3.5 INCH
EXTERNAL FLOPPY DRIVE
TO A COCO FD-502 SINGLE DRIVE?
I CAN GET A 3.5 FLOPPY FROM MY LOCAL RADIO SHACK STILL,
HOWEVER, I CANNOT FIGURE OUT HOW TO HOOK THE 34-PIN COCO
INTERFACE TO THE 30-PIN TANDY 1000 PORT.
IF ANYBODY HAS ANY SUGGESTIONS OR INFORMATION WHATSOEVER,
I WOULD SURELY APPRECIATE IT.

THANKS A LOT,

ROGER “MERCH” MERCHBERGER

Marty, have you ever see any data on the Sony 1303 MultiSync monitor? I
know you like Sonys (so do I) and next weekend I can get one for about $450.00
How do you feel about this monitor and at this price?

Steve

I have found out while working on the project by “Mark haverstock” in the
Aug 88 issue of rainbow that you must hook a wire to the 6th pin of the
joystick plug .
this pin is used only for the rs deluex joystks secend fire butten but
i have descoverd that tandys hi-res joystick interface needs it hooked up to
work !
Mark did not use this pin because most users do not have a rs deluex
joystick .
but as i said the hi-res interface does!

James farmer (modemmaaster)

I got your disk and your EPROM will be sent in the mail this Monday!
Thank you for your support!

Marty-

It seems to me that somewhere I have seen a PC-type remote keyboard with
extension cable designed for use with the CoCo. My system is beginning to
get quite complex and is becoming a nuisance to use (very cluttered). It seems
to me that if I could get one of the smaller-cased PC keyboards and bury my
CoCo and MPak somewhere (under a Shelf?) my problems would be over. Are you
aware of such a set-up?

Thanks!

Doug Fisher

I am using a COCO I with a DISTO super controller and a Display 80 Adapter.
The C-DOS is version 3.3. Do you know the memory address locations that will
yield the following information when in the 80 Column mode?
1. Character at current cursor position
2. X coordinate of current cursor position
3. Y coordinate of current cursor position

Also, is there anything that can be done to prevent the top half of the first
line of text in the 80 column display from being blanked?
Paul Finley

I freind of mine was trying to get a MPI upgrade and he said that radio shack
(or he found out that) radio ~rshack isnt selling them anymore!
is this true??…how does radio shack expect to sell rompaks(protected ones at
that..) if they dont provide a MPI?…my freind says he wont buy any rompak
soft unless he gets an upgrade supported by radio shack…why is radio shack
doing
this???…
—Ezra

I have for sale from Speech Systems-Ears,Voice Control, and Home Commander. If
interested please leave me a mail message. I also have a converted RS232 pac
that is extra.
Thanks
Bernie

before assuming your GIME is dead… there is a simple test
you should do. Try your CoCo out with ANOTHER MONITOR.
Another composite or an RGB monitor (say the CM8 at a local Shack store).
Tell me if you get the same problem with other monitors, and with
both composite and RGB monitors.

The problem you describe COULD be due to a comb filter
on your monitor. But is sounds more LIKELY it is
in the GIME chip. Without seeing the monitor, tho,
it’s hard for me to make a solid guess.

I SERIOUSLY doubt your CABLE could be at fault.

Tho occasionally ulta LONG video cables cause STRANGE effects.

—marty

While it is true, as Rick Adams wrote you, that the 7th bit of FF21
is connected with the CD status on the CoCo Bit Banger, this is
not the whole story! The CD line is sent to an auxiliarry input
of the PIA chip, and CANNOT be read directly. Instead, only
CHANGES in CD status can be detected! Set bit 0 of FF21 to 0.
THEN setting bit 1 of FF21 to 0 makes bit 7 of FF21 get SET to 1
on the FALLING edge of a transition of the CD line. Similarly,
setting Bit 1 of FF21 to 1 makes bit 7 get set on the RISING
edge of a CD transistion. You need to rest bit seven
after each detected transistion, and to constantly check
it for transitions.

—marty

I use the same approach, at times,… for exactly the same reason.
I see nothing wrong with the “cut the lead and solder to it”
component switch approach… provided one is careful to not push
the remaining lead back down too far and cause a short to
a ground plane or adjacent trace or pad.

—marty

The current STANDARD fee for buring a 68766 EPROM is $20 still.
I have stock of about 10 68766 chips which I am willing to burn
for $20. So the answer is YES. *I* will. Quantity orders,
however, will not be accepted. Art and I want our small
remaining stock of 68766′s to be used to support individual
ADOS purchersers.

—marty

The standard fee, as charged by authorized ADOS
EPROM burning centers, for burning a 2764
with ADOS, is $15, not $20.

This is for quantity one. If you doubt this,
check with Art Flexser.

Marty (one of the authrozied EPROM buring sides
for ADOS) Goodman

TEAC 55BV drives have been around for a long time, and I was unaware
of any such “502 like” problem with them. In any case, it should
be trivially easy to TEST if that is the problem:

Just type POKE &HFF40,1. Do BOTH spindle motors
come on? If not, that is not the problem. If only
the spindle motor on the LIGHTED (selected) drive coms
one, then yes… the problem IS like that of the 502.

I don’t know off hand if the 55BV’s have solenoids.
IF they do have head lift solenoids, you MUST defeat them
by jumpering the HM jumper, and NOT the HS jumper.

Hope this helps!

—marty

Marty, don’t know if you got my request for help before I deleted it.
At any rate, I finally got my Diablo Printer up and running.
I will make up a file of all the things I have found out and submit it to the
SI.
Hopefully, I can make it easier for the next person.
I still hve to work on some control codes, but it sure looks good so far.

Best Regards, Bob Smith

Would someone be kind enough to tell me the best ilv and step rate settings
to use for a Teac 3.5″ drive. Allready have it set to DSDD and 80 tracks
but it seems sluggish. So I was wondering if there was anything else that
could be modified to make it a “little faster”

Thanks,
David Bond

Hi Marty….a friend of mine is having problems with his COCO III…..it is
running hot (128k) and the text on the screen, right hand side, is wavy….he
is using a vm-4 monitor. Took it to the Shack and they replaced a chip, cost
1.00 don’t know which one
. Anyway, the problem is still there. Any ideas?

Hi, Marty I have a question for you! Now don’t get excited, but I would like to
use a 1902A commodore (magnavox) monitor with my coco 3! I remember a thread
on this a “LONG” time ago and hopefully, you’ll go easier on me!!(grin))

I know that the inputs are a 8pin TTL level and a 6pin that takes seperate
chromiance and luminance. I would like to use the 6pin jack.. There is a
producct called C-view that will take the rgb output of an
Amiga and convert it to the signals needed by this 6pin jack. New it costs
about$49.00. What I need to know is what is the amiag
as rgb output and how it compares to the coco 3 rgb output. I seem to recall
some talk about this by you. Also if there is a discrepency between the two,
can it be overcome??

Thanks in advance!! By the way. I understand that the resultant image is very
good!! And these monitors are turning up very cheap now! Till later, Harry

CHRIS, I HAVE JUST PURCHASED A 30MB SEAGATE ST238R WITH AN ST11R RLL
CONTROLLER. IS THIS COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR COCO XT-RTC? OR MUST I GET THE WESTERN
DIGITAL RLL CONTROLLER TO GET IT ALL WORKING? THANKS FOR THE HELP — LEE (MAICE)

OK, so maybe the op amp went out on my hires interface. So how do
I confirm this? I do have a multimeter, but no service manual for
the hires if.

HYPER-I/O Version 2.5, the current version, supports just about any size
of floppy drive — including 720K, 360K, 180K, and 156K. Version 2.6,
which will be available sometime in the next few months, will probably
include the lower-case support similar, but not identical, to what is
available in ADOS. We also have an ongoing project to produce a version
of HYPER-I/O that is ADOS compatible, but this is a problem because the
combination of ADOS and HYPER-I/O is too big for the available memory.

HYPER-I/O uses every bit of available memory, both $C000-$FDFF and some
direct page locations (e.g. $F3-$FF) to provide a rich set of features.
The current version is not compatible with ADOS, even if you use the
DISABLE command.

If you really want an ADOS-compatible version, watch for a product
announcement here or in Rainbow later this year. Otherwise, you can
use the existing version at least as a temporary solution.

NO, 2716, 2732, 2732A, 2764, 2764A, 27C64, 27128, 27128A, 27C128, 27256,
27512 and any equivalents

I have your ADOS1 (TDP100) set up however I would loke to have the Free after
the DIR & CAT to be all in lower case (free) not (Free). I see in line 560 of
the CUST program that ‘CONVERT “FREE” AT END OF DIR OR CAT.
I have tried changing the N=3 to other numbers but no luck. How can I get all
lower case free.
….I WANT TO THANK ANYONE WHO MIGHT HAVE CONTACTED DENNIS KITSZ ABOUT MY
EPROM BURNER BECAUSE IT ARIVED WED.
I LOVE ADOS….TAHNK YOU..
…….

Marty,

I have finished the hardware project, The Old Switcheroo II. I
now have 2 apparently unrelated problems. The first is with the
switch box it self. When I plug two devices in the Joystick
jacks, and the switch’s plug into the CoCo, the keyboard is
locked on power up. Unplugging the switchbox’s plug fixes the
situation. Any ideas?

Also can a hires interface go bad? Mine apparently has. None of
the software I have which uses won’t work anymore. With
Colormax Deluxe, the pointer arrow stays in the upper left
corner of the screen. With Home Publisher, the arrow will move
only up and down along the extreme left side of the screen.
Other software which uses the joystick or mouse without the
hires interface still function OK. Again, any ideas?

Zack

Can someone out there help me??? Problem converting an SSC pak to work on
a CoCo 3 under OS9 L2. First the pak is a 26-33144A version. I have
been following a set of instructions that I have. They said to remove
the old transistor replace it with a 2N3906 (exchanging the Base and
Collector as to make the match the older transistor, and to cut the
lead from Card edge pin 7 to pin 9 of the SN74LS86 and then to run a
wire from pin 9 to the cartridge ground. Well I did all that and
installed the new driver and descriptor that came with it and it still
doesn’t work.

Any Suggestions ANYONE!!!

Thanks,
David Bond

P.S. when I say that it doesn’t work I mean that it produces no sound.
the driver and descriptor appear to be functioning fine.

Dean,

I took a few minutes to look inside that AT&T adaptor I had,
and it turned out to be FAR FAR simpler than I had thought.

Therefore, I will now tell you EXACTLY how it is wired.

HOWEVER… because I am PRESSED for TIME… I have NOT
taken the trouble to actually try to USE the gizmo to see if
and how it works. This device was sent to me by Bob Rosen
some years ago, who had been using it on HIS AT&T Bell 212
modem, which is identical to one I have here.

I never used the device after I got it, for I already had
my modem hooked to the required special telephone set with the
required special cable.

The device has two normally open momentary contact push
buttons on it. One is for bringing the modem to connect to
the phone line after you dial up the host with a telephone set,
I think, and the other is to cause the system to hang up, I
think. You will have to experiment there. At present I don’t
even know which button does what, even IF what I just said
about their assigned fucntions WAS correct.

Here’s how the device is wired:

A RJ 11 phone jack (you can use a cord with a PLUG on it,
too, of course) is wired so that the RED wire goes to pin 8 of
a FEMALE DB 25 connector, and the GREEN wire goes to pin 7 of
the DB 25 connector.

Pin 5 of the DB 25 female goes to one side of one push
button, and pin 16 of the DB 25 female goes to one side of the
OTHER button.

The remaining free side of each of the two buttons is
connected to each other, AND to pin 4 of the DB25 female
connector.

THAT’s IT!!!

Feel free to try to whip up this simple gizmo, plug the RJ
11 plug or jack in parallel with a working telephone set,
plug the DB 25 female into the DB 25 male connector on the back
of your odd modem, and see if you can get it to work.
Note that you want the AL, RST, DL, and RST buttons to be OUT
(not pressed in), and you want the HS button to BE pressed in,
during this test. You’ll also need to use a RS232 pak, or tie
high (+5 volts to plus 15 volts) pin 20 of the modem’s female
DB 25 (RS232 line) connector. The modem REQUIRES DTR to be
high before it operates. Makig DTR low makes the modem hang
up.

Now, DIAL up the HOST on your handset, then PUSH one or the
other button, and see if the modem can be made to answer the
tone and connect. IF this is the case, THEN the other button
will likely cause the modem to hang up. I believe you hang
up the hand set as soon as the MODEM makes its connection.

I hope this helps you! Do PLEASE let me know, if you try
it, if it works. THANKS!

—marty

For Sale: TWO black and white surveilance video cameras, suitable
for use with CCTV surveilance / monitoring systems AND for use
with DS69 and other digitizers.

BOTH cameras have “C mount” threaded recepticals that allow them
to use a VERY great number of standard TV and movie camera
lenses.

BOTH cameras put out a standard monochrome composite video signal
via a SO-239 type connector (the kind used by amateur radio and CB
antenna systems. This can be easily adapted to RCA phono plug
conectors.

BOTH cameras are in working order.

BOTH cameras have minor burns on their vidicon tubes, but still
produce a decent image. Replacement vidicon tubes are probably
available new at a cost in the vicinity of $50. The Ikegami’s
vidicon tube is slightly less burned than that of the Sanyo… tho
again, note, that neither is SEVERELY burned. With the Ikegami
you can barely notice the burned area. With the Sanyo, there is
a little bright dot on top of the image in the center… just at
the VERY top… and a few “black threads” that appear at certain
image light levels over more of the image.

One camera is an IKEGAMI Model ITC-46. It is powered by a 110
Volt AC power cord (all power supply circuitry is INSIDE the main
camera body).

The other camera is a Sanyo model VC-1600L. It requires 24 volts
AC to power it, and this is supplied via two screws on the back of
the camera. Any 24 volt (or thereabouts) transformer will work
fine to power it. The Tandy 273-1512 25.2 volt transformer
will work VERY well. Just put it in a box, and solder on
a power cord for the transformer to hook it to the 110 AC of the
wall, and a dozen or so feet of twin lead AC cord to the 25 volt
side and hook THAT to the camera.

The advantage of cameras (like the Sanyo and Panasonic and others)
that use 24 volts AC is that they have smaller, lighter
transformers in them, and so they themselves tend to be smaller
and lighter. The advantage of the Ikegami approach is that you
don’t have to hassel making up a power supply for it.

New, cameras like this sell for around $150. As I noted, they can
be made “virtually new” by replacement of their vidicon tubes.

I will sell either camera for $40 plus shipping. I will sell both
cameras for $75 plus shipping. Or propose a trade to me.

—marty
P.S.

With the cameras are two lenses, both C mount:

One f 1.5 8.5 mm lens (wide angle) that focuses from 8 inches to infinity

One f 1.6 16mm lens (more normal angle) that focuses from 9 in to infinity

If you want ONE of the above cameras you get your choice of the lenses.
If you want BOTH of them, you get both of these lenses.

—marty

Marty,

There is an interesting hardware project in the new issue of The
Rainbow called the old Switcheroo. It is used to switch the cassette
port and a joystick port as wll (two separate toggle switches). The
diagram for the joystick switch shows 6pin DIN connectors, but only
instructs one to wire pins 1 thru 5. It makes no mention of 6 and doesn’t
even label it. What gives? Does pin 6 need to be wired also?

thanks,
zack

Has anyone gotten this monitor to work on a CoCo 3? Someone is trying to sell
me one, and I don’t know if it will do me any good.. It’s appparently a
composite/RGB monitor, but he isn’t sure if it’s Analog RGB or not, but he
thinks it is. The RGB port has a DB25 connector on it.. If an RGB cable
could be made for it, would it work ok on the CoCo 3? The composite part of
it works fine…

I took your suggestion and changed the jumper of my FD-502 drive 1, so
that both drives spin when one or the other is accessed. The mod went well,
and it has, in fact, produced the results you said it would.
My problem now is that I have an LED that is on continually now, as long
as there is power to the unit. I thought maybe you might be able to give me an
idea where the problem might be located. I used all the pokes you suggested,
and
the drive works absolutely correctly, except for that LED. The mod was clean,
without any problems, and I didn’t think I had changed anything else, but
obviously I’m getting a crossover somewhere. I thought maybe with you’re famil
iarity with the FD-502, you might give me a place to start, other than sending
it to Tandy for a repair. I don’t have schematics, or anything.
I’d appreciate any help you could offer.

Dean Lawrence (DEANL)

Marty,

Did I hear you say once that you sell a keyboard extender cable?

HI, I’VE HEARD OF A 2ND GENERATION 512K UPGRADE THAT TAKES JUST 4 MEMORY CHIPS,
IF YOU KNOW ABOUT THIS PLEASE LEAVE ME E-MAIL ABOUT IT,WHICH CHIPS, COST,
RELIABILITY,ECT……..THANX KEN

Marty,

I have a 512k Coco 3, old gray multipak (upgraded PAL), and a
RS-232. I want to use the pak with OS-9 but it simply won’t work. I
know the OS-9 software part is correct and I know my modem and RS-232
pak are hooked together correctly. I think the multipak is going bad
and it won’t locate any slots. I have my disk drive in slot 4 and the
RS232 in slot 1 with nothing else in. Mickeyterm and OS-9 ignore the
RS232-pak although it’s plugged in. The outside switch works to
select slots but the internal switch must not be. What could be
connected with this sort of problem. What chips, etc. Thanks for all
your help. I appreciate it. – Eric Wolf (OLDGROUCH)

P.S. The RS232 pak works fine when plugged directly in and using the
built in software.

Hi Marty.. Long time no write.

I have a small question… how do I hook up the 74ls02 and the cable for my
RGB-A monitor? (it’s like the Sony)

I know you showed me how but I don’t remember seeing any pin assignments, and
I’m not sure where the inputs and outputs are, and where the 5V and ground pis
are.

Thanks again for you help

Kris

Someone gave me a 2400 baud modem that had a DB-25 connector on the side
that connects to the telephone line ( and thereby, the wall). I ordered an
adapter that changes the standard 4 or 6 pin modular phone jack to a DB-25 conn
ector, but it was not assembled when I recieved it. Can you tell me what pins
I need to connect the 4-pin phone line to on the DB-25?
Second question: I get a lot of key-bounce on my CoCo 3. Anything I can
do about it?

Dean Lawrence (DEANL)

Randy,
Please send a money order for 100.00 to Des Policani 10726 Rampart dr ea.
Puyallup Wa. 98374.

Enclose also 20$ above for shipping I will return any excess funds though I,m
told by MartyGoodman that thats about how much it costs to ship Con.USA.
Please send me info as to aaddress online and I will ship sameday as moneyorder
comes.

Thanks..DES.

I AM LOOKING FOR A 1200 BAUD MODEM
TO USE ON DELPHI BECAUSE 300 IS SOOOOOO
SLLLOOOOOWWWWW TO DOWNLOAD.
IF ANYONE HAS ONE FOR <50 BUCKS LEAVE
A MESSAGE AND I WILL APPRECIATE IT

I have the TDP100 64K ‘F’ board bought from Bob Rosen in ’82N 16K eprom
for ADOS. A super ADOS 3? That sounds wonderful.
Would I guess that will be the final straw for my
holding out on getting a CoCo 3. Would the Super
ADOS work in a CoCo1 in vanilla mode.
Have there been any updates, mods, etc to ADOS
1 ’84.
………….

I have the TDP100 64K ‘F’ board bought from Bob Rosen in ’82.
With regard to the Kitsz’s lower case or tHe
VDG chip is it possible to “read” the vdg chip
modify it and burn an EPROM to get 80 column.
………………..

To all out of wack floppy drive owners.
Learn to repair them yourself and if you fail get
them repaired for free.
Yes thats right free floppy drive repair.
There is a great drive repair publication for
the nob techer and no expensive equipment needed
for the vast majority of repairs.
DISK SERVICE MANUAL III
by Consumertronics Co.
2011 crescent Dr. P.O.Drawer 537
Alamogordo, NM 88310
Price is $22.00

There are many many references to th CoCo and
controllers, and disk check out programs.
The one requirment for the free repair is
that one must have bought $20.00 in publications
and that shipping be paid. Also you must send a
sase with disk problems.
I suggest getting this book (others available
on printer repairs/modifictions etc.) so simple
repairs can be made.
I have no financial interest but used this to
repair, first time around, two very out of wack
floppy drives. Lots of small type and pictures.
I’m going to get the manual on printers so I
can increase the memory of the serial buffer.
……………..

I am cleaning out excess inventory in the gararge, and have the following
package for sale:

TWO CoCo 2 keyboards … one a stock Tandy type CoCo 2 keyboard,
the other a Model 3 type ALPS keyboard rewired to be compatible
with the CoCo 1 and 2. BOTH come with adaptors and 5 foot
cables (that terminate in DB 25 connectors) for use as remote keyboards.

In addition, I have one HJL old style keyboard that has “F1, F2, F3, F4
” keys, that correspond respectively to the Alt, Ctrl, F1, and F2 keys
of the CoCo 3. It will be supplied with an adaptor that
would allow you to use IT as a remote keyboard.

I want $30 (shipping included) for all three keyboards… or
make offer.

I might be persuaded to part with one or both of my PBJ word paks,
too. Anyone interested in them? These are the OLD style word pak I’s,
with a custom EPROM character font designed by yours truly.

I also have a PBJ 2SP pak that has two hardware serial ports.
One at the standard location of the RS232 pak and the other
at the location used by the Tandy DC modem pak.

Great for OS9 users who want a second serial port. Anyone
interested?? Make offer.

—marty

I have the TDP100 64K ‘F’ board bought from Bob Rosen in ’82.
I have read several articles in publications
like Dynamic Color News on ‘reading’ the Basic o
Extended Basic chip modifying it and burning into
an Eprom. Or combining both onto one chip and
using the free socket for other programs. What
could be put into the free socket or what kind of
modifcations could be made to ECB. How about a
better editor. Could OS-9 be epromed?
Just a few thoughts. TW64 is wizzing along aNd
so I get a little long winded.
…………..

I have the TDP100 64K ‘F’ board bought from Bob Rosen in ’82.
There is a plug-in clock chip with battery that
piggybacks onto another chip in the IBM. Is there
a way to use that chip on the coco. Perhaps
piggybacked on the Basic chip or the DOS chip.
Just a thought… any comments?
………….

I have the TDP100 64K ‘F’ board bought from@Bob Rosen in ’82.
Does anyone know about the IBM
keyboard/interface for the CoCo 1,2,3 with all the
keys working and prgraming of the macro keys. It
also automatically boots up DOS on power-up.
Supposidly this is sold by Owl-Ware. Price for
just the interface is 105.00 and
keyboard/interface is 155.00.
Does anyonEurther information on
this?
……………

I was thinking about getting it from the drive. I found an article about
conecting it to a CoCo3 in the June Rainbow. It tells how to get the 12 volts
from the drive, and thats all I need. I’m selling it to a friend and he can use
it on a 2 or 3.

From: KEVINBEHEL To: ALL

I’m looking for information on getting a 12 volt power supply for one of the
old controllers from the disk drive instead of using a multipak or modifying a
CoCo 2 or 3.

SUPER DEAL. CM8 RGB monitor
FOR SALE. 100.00 + shipping (approx 20.00).
1 year old with very lite duty. Excellent shape!
Would consider a trade for a 1200 baud modem and PAC.
DES POLICANI

I urge you to immediately test your system with
the disk controller plugged in to the CoCo slot in the machine,
as it should be. See if THAT eliminates the drive
problems you are having!!!

Let me know what happens.

—marty

Don,
Thanks for your help with getting me info on my direct connect pak and what
to do with my bad choice. I,ve ordered Mikeyterm and also am looking to get a
better mo would be interested in an RGB monitor CM8 for 100? Whats the best way
to sell online? I,
d like to be able to get a good modem for my CM8 ( I replaced it with a
magnavox) a swap would be OK.

Anyway, thanks again for the help and I,ll stay in touch as things progress.

DES

You said 47pf caps. The original thread called for 100pf caps to be
substituted for the original 39pf ones. Was this a typo, or did you
really use 47pf caps? If so, you might try the 100pf ones.

***** Dennis *****

Marty,
Rcently read on a bbs about a fix for the sparklies involving changing out r9
and 10 with 100 ohm resistors and c10 and 11 with 100 pf caps.
This patch supposedly came from here on Delphi but I have not seen it published
here can you confirm or deny that this is indeed a good patch before I go to
allthat trouble to create more trouble.
Thanks in advance.
–LESTERE–

Dave,

Roger Krupski has not been on line for a while, and so it
may be a long time (if ever) before he answers your note.
I just wanted to warn you about that.

—marty

Marty,

I was looking over some old messages I had saved re sparklies. As I
understand it, the final, absolute fix is: replace the 47 ohm resistors
which feed the E and Q clock signals into the GIME chip with 100 ohm
ones; and replace the 39 pf caps to ground (next to the resistors) with
100 pf caps. Is that correct? Have you tried it?

***** Dennis *****

Don, Thanks for your input on the direct connet modem. I,m sure as time goes
by II’ll understand better what I’m up to hereee.I already have a multipaak
interface so it appears that by ordering miketermm i would be able to download
to disk. I really don
t understand the tech. aspects of all this though as I thought when you try to
switch the multipak interface between the DC modem and the drives that the
computer “burps” and you lose touch with driives or pak or both. For the short
term Im willing to keep
rposes however I guess I,ll neeed a new modem to really be happy.If I buy
another, what hardware do I need for the Link? cable..RS232 pak? Modem. Im a
bit confused by it all..

As to the other problem I mentiioned relative to COCO3. I seem to get multiple
characters for on press of the key pad. Im sure you can see that in the text.
It only happens when Im on Line. Wonder if its something in my set up or if my
keyboard is getting
flakey.. Well… Thanks for the help so far.. Back in a few days Des.KA7WMM.

Hi, Marty. I have one of the oolder disk paks that needs +12 volts to work. I
have been using it sucessfully with my COCO 3 & Multipak Interface, despite
your warnings about it being slow. Recently I have been getting system
lock-ups and or disk crashes
after 3-4 hours of use involving lots of disk accesses. Example is using
DSAVE several times (OS-9 command) whild “customizing” my system disks. The
system is OK after a 30 min cool-down. I suspect a marginal disk pak that now
has a heat problem that i
s putting it over the edge. I have done the
“swap” test and am fairly sure that it is the disk pak. Are ther any particular
components that are more suspect than others for heat related probs? Also, can
I replace some of the chips with faster versions and solve the built in speed
probnlem? I have the time, and I can run a soldering iron (30 yrs of Ham Radio
(Dlish the challange! Thanks!!

(Don Spoon>—